Disease and the spread of diseases can be prevented, in many cases, with common sense and regular sanitation procedures. Recently the specter of VHD (Viral Hemorrhagic Disease or also known as RCD, Rabbit Calicivirus Disease) raised its ugly head in Iowa. This is a wake up call to each and every one of us. It is a call to think about and act upon maintaining a careful watch over our companion bunny's health and lives. VHD is just one of many diseases that can strike our rabbit at any time. Our first line of defense in protecting our rabbits is to make sure they are as healthy as possible. You can do this by reducing stress, ensuring good nutrition, following good cleaning techniques and by taking extra precautions when dealing with a sick rabbit or when interacting with rabbits other than your own.

Stress will weaken a rabbit's immune system. A weakened immune system will open the door to diseases and maladies. For example, bacteria or parasites might suddenly overgrow and become a risk to your rabbit's life. Opportunistic infections in stressed bunnies are a major problem. Rabbits under stress are less able to keep these organisms in balance. Causes of stress can be very simple, and they frequently result from sudden changes in routine or living. A companion bunny dies, a new cage, lots of strange visitors, car rides, going outside, you going on vacation, strong scents, being kept outside in a hutch (raccoons, weather changes, sounds, etc.), not getting enough attention (boredom), dietary changes, sharp noises, aging, a new bunny (or pet), and disease are just a few examples. Always make changes slowly, give Bunny lots of attention and provide a safe and secure living environment.

Do not allow your bunny to become obese; overweight places a stress upon your bunny’s biological systems. Those treats your bunny enjoys should remain treats and you should provide means of exercise for your bunny. Obesity in itself shortens living time.

Provide a high fiber and balanced diet. Keep the carrots, apples and other high sugar/starch food items as treats only. Just as you would not allow your children to live on junk food, do allow your bunny to do so. A small treat will satisfy that big sweet tooth just as a large amount will. Instead, give Bunny kisses and snuggles. Give unlimited timothy or grass hay (alfalfa hay is hard on the older bunny's kidneys), provide fresh veggies and limit pellets to no more than 1/2 cup a day. Change and provide fresh water daily.

Wash all fresh food items prior to feeding. Even organically grown veggies from your garden have to be washed. Wildlife visit your garden and could leave behind on that fresh lettuce organisms that will make your bunny ill. Raccoons are host to a parasite that will prove fatal to your bunny. Baylis (shortened name) is a roundworm that, once the "egg" is ingested by your bunny or by you, will "hatch" and then migrate through the body, many times ending up in the brain. Once in the brain, there is almost no chance of killing it. Many species of wildlife can be hosts to certain organisms that will infect bunnies and you. The Baylis "egg" can remain dormant in the soil for many years. The veggies you buy from the farmer's market or local grocery store may contain pesticide, fungicide and other chemicals that will build up in the body. Wash these foods and wash them a second time.

Feed fresh and unspoiled foods. If you hay smells moldy or is dusty, do not feed it. Molds and dust can cause illness. Store your hay where it will not get damp.

Couch potatoes live shorter lives, and so it is with the bunny kept in a cage without the opportunity to jump, dash, play, bounce, explore, stretch, cuddle, nap, then jump, dash and play again. Exercise reduces stress hormone levels and builds a healthier immune system.

Cleaning Techniques

Maintain a clean and comfortable cage. Wash and rinse food and water bowls often. This includes toys and furnishings.

If you use a water bottle, clean every part of it, including the sipper tube. Mold builds up in this tiny place. Molds may be unseen but they can prove deadly.

Keep the litter pan fresh. Scrub the pan with hot water and soap once a week. Then soak in a 30% bleach solution for 30 minutes. Rinse completely. An easy labor saving trick is to have two--one clean and one in use.

If you have a sick rabbit - decontaminate - wash, shower (include your hair) and change your clothes after caring for your friend. Wear protective gloves, shoe covers and the like; in our foster home we keep a hospital gown that we wear over our clothes when caring for quarantined rabbits. Keep a set of dishes, litter pans, toys, etc., separated from the other pets in your home.

If one rabbit falls ill, care for your healthy animals first, wash up, and then care for your ill bunny. Then wash again and decontaminate.

Always give medications as your vet has ordered. Do not discontinue them early just because your bunny looks better.

Wash your hands after handling your rabbits before interacting with another.

After using a traveling container, disinfect it completely. This includes the doors, screws and nuts. Disassemble the kennel cab to wash it. Leaving a kennel cab assembled will allow possible bacteria and infective agents to remain between the top and bottom pieces.

After visiting a friend's rabbit (whether at a show, humane shelter, county fair, pet store, rabbit breeder, handling a wild rabbit, -anyplace that you are in contact with other rabbits or their people), always decontaminate before interacting with your bunnies. A friend's bunny may harbor a parasite or disease that you can bring home. You might change clothes and shower before seeing your own bunnies.

If you bunny-sit, keep that bunny isolated from your rabbits. Decontaminate after being with the strange bunny.

Anything you disinfect has to be cleaned with hot water and soap prior to disinfecting. This is because organic matter can cancel out the disinfecting properties of many solutions.

Disinfecting solutions are not all the same. Some can remain on the item, while other solutions have to be rinsed off because they could be toxic. Read the label to determine whether a particular disinfectant is suitable for the infectious disease you are tackling. NEVER mix bleach and ammonia. This will produce a very dangerous gas.

Disinfect shoes with a 10% bleach solution for 30 minutes, and then if possible allow them to dry in the sunshine. This is hard on your shoes, so I keep a spare set of shoes for shelter visits and such.

Wash bunny laundry in hot water with bleach or a disinfecting solution. Do not mix with family laundry. If you have a septic tank, some disinfecting solutions will also kill off the beneficial bacteria's in the tank. You may need to go to the laundromat to wash sick bunny laundry.

With respect to the VHD outbreak in Iowa, take heed of the suggestions given in the April Alert Bulletin and in this issue’s ‘VHD Update’.

Above all, know your bunny. If you ever notice that he is not acting normal (for your friend) it is time to stay alert and monitor carefully what may be going on. Sometimes the problem is easy to solve. For example, my bunny Tatonka hates strong scents, and after a visitor wearing strong perfume spent time in her room, Tatonka became very withdrawn and grumpy. Once the odor was gone she returned to her bouncy self. However, a bunny with fluffed up fur, which is not eating, and is grinding its teeth is a very sick bunny and needs medical attention right away.

VHD in Iowa has been a wake up call for each one of us to think about how we have been caring for our bunny friends. They are completely dependent upon us for all their needs. Only we can correct dirty litter boxes, poor quality food or an improper diet. This is also the case with the risks of bringing home a disease. Wisconsin is closer to Iowa than you may think. It is critical that we listen to and act upon this call. In fact, YOU ARE your bunnies’ first line of defense.

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